The Fish That Defined a Nation
There is a saying in Portugal: "bacalhau has a thousand recipes." Whether or not that's literally true, the sentiment captures how deeply salt cod is woven into Portuguese identity. Bacalhau appears on Christmas Eve tables, in modest workers' canteens, in high-end Lisbon restaurants, and in virtually every family kitchen in between.
What makes this so remarkable is that cod doesn't even live in Portuguese waters. For centuries, Portuguese fishermen sailed to the icy waters off Newfoundland and Iceland to catch the fish — a journey that could take months. The cod was then heavily salted and dried for preservation, creating a product that could be stored for years and carried across the world.
What Is Bacalhau?
Bacalhau is Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) that has been preserved through a combination of salting and drying. Before cooking, it must be soaked in cold water for 24 to 48 hours — changing the water several times — to rehydrate it and remove most of the salt. The result is a firm, flavourful fish unlike any fresh alternative.
You'll find bacalhau sold in Portuguese supermarkets and market stalls in stiff, pale yellowish slabs. The smell before soaking is powerful; after preparation, the flavour becomes rich, complex, and deeply satisfying.
Essential Bacalhau Dishes to Try
Bacalhau à Brás
Perhaps the most popular and widely available bacalhau dish. Shredded salt cod is mixed with thin matchstick-fried potatoes, scrambled eggs, onion, and black olives. It is creamy, salty, and wonderfully comforting — a staple of Lisbon tascas (traditional taverns).
Bacalhau com Natas
Layers of bacalhau, thinly sliced potatoes, and caramelised onions baked under a thick cream sauce. It's richer than Brás and more often found as a Sunday lunch dish. A favourite across the country.
Bacalhau à Lagareiro
A more rustic preparation: the fish is oven-roasted with olive oil, garlic, and potatoes, then finished with a very generous drizzle — some would say flood — of good olive oil. The name comes from lagar (olive press), and the dish is a celebration of Portuguese olive oil culture.
Bacalhau Cozido (Boiled Bacalhau)
The simplest preparation and for many the most traditional. The soaked cod is boiled and served alongside boiled potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, chickpeas, and greens, all drizzled with olive oil and vinegar. Served on Fridays and during Lent especially.
Pastéis de Bacalhau
These oval-shaped fritters — salt cod blended with mashed potato, parsley, and egg — are one of Portugal's great snacks. Eaten hot from a tasca at any time of day, they're crispy outside and soft within.
Regional Variations
| Region | Notable Bacalhau Dish | Key Characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Lisbon | Bacalhau à Brás | Eggs, matchstick fries, olives |
| Porto | Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá | Layered with potatoes, egg, and onion |
| Minho | Bacalhau com Broa | Topped with cornbread crust |
| Alentejo | Bacalhau à Alentejana | With chickpeas and coriander |
Pairing Bacalhau with Wine
Portugal's white wines are often the ideal companion to bacalhau dishes. A crisp Vinho Verde cuts through the richness of cream-based preparations, while a fuller Alentejo Branco stands up beautifully to oven-roasted versions. For Bacalhau à Lagareiro, a light, chilled red from the Dão or Bairrada region also works surprisingly well.
Whatever your preference, eating bacalhau in Portugal is not just a meal — it's a participation in something deeply cultural. Order it, ask your waiter how they like it best, and settle in.